Cliff Henderson is the visionary credited with creating Palm Desert. Henderson was a nationally known individual who, among many other things, had been the first manager of the Los Angeles Airport and managed the National Air Races. Encouragement and financial backing for creating the city came from Edgar Bergen, Harold Lloyd, Leonard Firestone, Bill and Anthony Stewart (Union Oil), and the brothers Carl, Randall and Phil Henderson among others. This same group owned the famous Welton Beckett designed, streamline moderne, Pan Pacific Auditorium in Los Angeles and had regular contacts with the rich and famous. By 1946, the Palm Desert Corporation was formed and 1,620 acres of pure desert land was purchased south of Highway 111. Rumor has it that they paid $26 per acre. Edith Eddy Ward set herself up as the First Lady of real estate for Palm Desert. Tommy Tomson, the husband of the Henderson sister Dorris, was chosen as the city landscape architect. He created a city plan that continued the concept of curving neighborhood streets that had started in nearby Palm Village. Soon streets and water distribution systems were in place. The main street, El Paseo was planned and developed as an opulent shopping destination, with trees optimistically planted a full 10 years before the first store opened. Tomson was famous for his landscapes of Union Station in Los Angeles, the Santa Anita racecourse, Pan Pacific Auditorium and the Los Angeles Park La Brea apartments near LACMA.

In 1945, just west of Highway 74, homesteads were started in the Cahuilla Hills. There were 128, five-acre parcels that were offered at $5 a year. Homesteaders who added a self-built cabin worth at least $300 to the site received the deed to the property. One early homesteader was none other than Tommy Tomson, who constructed his unusual house from railroad ties with modern spider-leg structure supports attached. Today, the Cahuilla Hills are an amazing mix of giant estates and tiny, tiny homes.

Meanwhile the famous Shadow Mountain Club was beginning to take shape. Kaufmann, Lippincott, and Eggers were the original architects for this mammoth project. Gordon Kaufmann was known at the time for designing the original La Quinta Hotel (now La Quinta Resort & Club) and the Hoover Dam.

Images of Shadow Mountain Club and Club Logo courtesy of Historical Society of Palm Desert

One architect, the internationally famous Rudolph Schindler, was commissioned to design the Maryon Toole House (1946-1948) in Palm Village. Today this is one of the most important preserved modernist structures in the Coachella Valley. It is also the only known remaining Schindler structure in our valley. The reddish-brown local stone masonry house has a soaring and open beam ceiling punctured by a fireplace. According to Schindler, “the whole is shaded by an ample but lightly poised roof reminiscent of a giant oak leaf.” Schindler called his form of modern architecture “space architecture,” because it focused on the design of the interior space. The views from inside this structure reveal spectacular mountains in all directions. Schindler is credited for the first modernist structure in our valley, the Popenoe Cabin (1922), which once was located in Coachella.

Toole House Site Plan and Vintage Image by owner. Interior images by Shirley C. Burden.
Architecture and Design Collection. Art, Design & Architecture Museum, UC Santa Barbara.

The first major commercial structure to be built south of Highway 111 was near the Toole House. It was the 17,000 square foot Desert Magazine building for Randall Henderson. Here the publication, Desert Magazine was produced. This large structure was primarily used for publishing, but also included an art gallery, gift shop, and gem shop. The Pueblo Revival building was designed by Harry Williams and was built in 1948. In addition, Williams designed apartments located behind the commercial structure for the employees. Harry Williams is the same architect that designed the 1936 La Plaza in downtown Palm Springs, which also incorporated a mixed-use approach. He would later establish the firm of Williams, Williams, and Williams (with sons Roger and Stewart).

Arial photograph is by Walter S. White. Image is bounded by Shadow Mountain Drive on the left and El Paseo Blvd. on the right. The Sun Lodges are clustered at the top and the Firecliff Lodge is aligned along the bottom. Architecture and Design Collection. Art, Design & Architecture Museum, UC Santa Barbara.

The Firecliff Lodge, named after its backers Leonard Firestone and Cliff Henderson, opened on El Paseo in 1948, back when it was a dirt road. It became the first of many attractions for visitors that were located at a walking distance from the Shadow Mountain Club. Besides rental bungalows and a pool, the Firecliff offered fine dining and a lounge. Throughout the late 1950s, architect William Frazier Overpeck designed Firecliff living units and hotel additions. His designs provided a spectacular modern setting. Textured block, angular fireplace, water features and modern furniture filled the spacious lobby and lounge areas. Next door, to the west of Firecliff, a cluster of cooperative homes called the Sun Lodges were also built. The original small, efficient modern homes were designed by Walter S. White in 1949 and could be rented out when the owners were away. At first, the one-bedroom units were only 650 square feet, but larger homes were offered later. Unfortunately, today both the Firecliff Lodge and the Sun Lodges have been demolished.

White had a dramatic impact on the look of the newly developing Palm Desert. Fortunately, many of these homes can still be seen in Palm Desert today, including the following: Clifford Henderson House (remodel); E. W. Stewart House; W. Durham House; Paulette Johnson (Herbert) House; Tom Brown #2 House; Claude S. Voile House; Donald Hunter House; Ralph Rollins House; Charles Milliken House; George Mitchell House; Samuel Cowling House; Harvey L. and Minna Kirk Ackman House; Melvin Bradford House; Albert L. Peterson House; Richard Deman Bungalows; Several Metro Homes; Miles Bates House. In his early years, White had worked in the offices of Harwell Hamilton Harris, Rudolph Schindler, Leopold Fischer, and Albert Frey.

Walter S. White office near Highway 111, circa 1949.

White also experimented with roof structures which included the Hyperbolic Paraboloid in which he received a U.S. Patent (an example can still be seen on the Max Willcockson House located in Indio which may have influenced the Frey & Chambers Tramway Gas Station in Palm Springs that was built many years later.) Another invention of his was an ingenious roof system that included long wooden dowels that allowed wave like shapes. He received a U.S. Patent for this system, which was originally developed for the Palm Desert Miles Bates House.

Another architect who had an extensive impact on the built environment of Palm Desert was John Outcault. He grew up in Palm Springs and received his Architectural degree from USC in 1952. While a student, he worked in the offices of Clark and Frey. After graduation, he worked for the State of California Division of Architecture (1952-1953), Alfred Easton Poor Architect in New York City (1953-1956) and Clark, Frey & Chambers (1956). In 1956, he opened his own office in the city of Palm Desert. 

Typical example of the architectural work of John F. Outcault

Some of Outcault’s most important Palm Desert work that can still be easily viewed today includes: The Christian Science Church; Palm Desert Library; Living Desert Buildings; Gordon Bain House; Ralph Hale House; George Klein House; Randall Henderson House #2; Natt McDougal House; Paul Moller House; Virgil Pinkley House; John Outcault House; Ed Welcome House; Harold Kapp House; J. R. Cummings House; Charles White Apartments; Shadowcliff Condominiums; Bilarc-One Condominiums; Palm Desert Senior Center (Joslyn); and the Roger Fuller (Galleria) Commercial Building.

Palm Desert Sandpiper, by William Krisel

Today, it remains one of the best examples of a concentration of Desert Modernism architecture in the Coachella Valley. Although it is frequently referred to in the singular, there are actually nine separate real estate subdivisions representing eleven building stages that occurred between 1958 and 1969.

This time span makes the Sandpiper a unique and historic landmark, as ultimately it served as a true “design and build” laboratory. One can actually see how over time the architect and builders responded to the changing needs of homeowners, the availability of materials, and the current economy when producing a modern product that would successfully celebrate life in the desert. The initial chosen design incorporated eight, three-unit, single story, pinwheel-shaped buildings clustered around a common area. The typical ‘front porch’ in each unit was moved to the poolside, away from the street. Decorative concrete walls were used extensively. Post and beam construction, flat roofs, large sliding glass doors, clerestory windows, aluminum sash, refrigerated air, matched electrical appliances, modern décor, space age kitchens, swimming pools with dramatic angles, exterior walls of concrete steps, varying roof heights, sun-flaps, putting greens, desert and ‘tropical’ planting. Every unit had views of the mountains and the pool. Every unit had both public and private patios. From the very beginning, the Sandpiper was highly acclaimed and award winning with literally dozens of articles in newspapers, magazines and trade publications with many filled with Julius Shulman images. Further international attention came when President Kennedy traveled right by the Sandpiper on his way to stay at Bing Crosby’s home in nearby Silver Spur.

In the end, the Sandpiper included 306 individual homes and eighteen swimming pools entwined with private roads and walkways spread over nearly fifty-five acres. The ‘modern’ Sandpiper paved the way for many more developments in Palm Desert and the rest of the Coachella Valley. Many of these later projects chose materials and design features that were first introduced and promoted at the Krisel-designed Sandpiper.

Odell Ranch House, by Carl Hansen

This ‘Dream Team’ was led by John Carl Warnecke who was responsible for the original master plan for the campus. He is credited with incorporating the look of the local palm trees and palm fronds into the final campus design. Buildings with exterior covered walkways were bordered by tapered columns recalling the nearby date palms. Sand colored exteriors were used to connect with the desert landscape. A unifying design element of rectangular panels was placed on the edge of the covered walkways of most of the buildings. And from all locations everyone had views of the distant mountains. The center building was the original two story library building which was placed on an elevated foundation and placed near a large fountain for emphasis. John Porter Clark served as the senior coordinating architect that saw the Warnecke plan implemented. He accomplished this while coordinating with the prominent local architects: Williams and Williams; Wexler & Harrison; and Frey and Chambers. The first students arrived in 1962 (a few hundred). Another 8 buildings were added by the late 1960s. Today, newer structures have been added that encircle the original core, and the campus now serves 14,000 students annually. Once this campus was created, it made a direct positive impact on the growth of Palm Desert.

In the 1950s and 1960s several neighborhoods were developed including: Metro Homes; Desert Garden Estates; Panorama Ranch; Shadow Hill Estates; Deep Canyon Ranch; Palm Vista; Silver Spur Estates; Shadow Mountain Vista; Shadow Mountain Estates; Shadow Mountain Fairway; Palm Desert Highlands; Shadow Village; Palm Desert Country Club (Palm City); Purple Hills Estates; Marrakesh Country Club(into the 1970s) and many more. A large number of the homes in these neighborhoods were proudly sold as modern. They were often long horizontal structures with low-pitched roofs and included bands of windows and glass sliders. Many of these participated in the Medallion Home program. This program started in late 1957 and encouraged the public to fashion a better way of living by buying homes properly planned and equipped with electrical appliances.

“Today, like glittering jewels, the Medallion Homes sparkle with excitement and afford a more comfortable and luxurious way of life.”
— California Electric Power Company

The original Palm Desert residential zoning rules dictated single story houses with no architectural style dictated; however, ranch houses were deemed desirable. All plans had to be approved by the Palm Desert Architectural Committee. Square footage minimums were set at 800sf for small weekend cottage sites; 1,000sf for small home sites; 1,200sf for Shadow Mountain Estates; and 1,500sf for Palm Desert Ranchos.

The city ‘Founder,’ Cliff Henderson chose to have a modern house, which was built in 1947. Most of the homes close to the Shadow Mountain Club were custom designs by architects and designers. Some homes were by designer/builders. The Architectural Committee encouraged multiple designers and architects to work in each neighborhood.

Areas of actual tracts did not actively appear until the mid-to-late 1960s. Motels, markets, apartments, condominiums, retail, schools, religious, entertainment and public buildings would soon follow with many celebrating the architecture of desert modernism. In all of these building types, the designers had to consider carefully the harsh environmental requirements of living in the desert. They perfected modern floor and site plans and took full advantage of all those mountain and exterior views. They used new building materials and experimented with new building methods. In the end, they left a legacy of structures that celebrate the good life of Palm Desert where, as the early promoters would say…

• “At least an hour’s more sun for every day of fun!”
• “Where the sun spends the winter”
• “Hours more sun … Lots More Fun!”
• “Carefree Desert Living”
• “Smartest address in the desert”

Some of the architects and designers and builders that worked in Palm Desert at the mid century (1940s through 1970s) included the following: Clarence Beck; Barry Berkus; Harold Bissner; Michael Black; Reginald Bolt; Sheldon Brown; William Bray; Herbert Burns; Robson Chambers; Christian Choate; John Porter Clark; William Cody; Arthur Coffey; Alfred H. Cook; Charles Darland; Richard Deman; Charles W. Doty; Tom Douglas; J. C. Dunas; Charles DuBois; Duval Brothers; Lakeside Development; Polly deMayle; Leopold Fischer; Albert Frey; Barry Frost; Hank Gogerty; Carl Hansen; Richard Harrison; George Holstein; Weston and Jones; T. E. Jung; Kaufmann, Lippincott, and Eggers; Earl Kaltenbach; Hugh Kaptur; Kemp and Osborn; Robert Koch; William Krisel; Howard Lapham; Lawrence Lapham; Lillian Hunt; Bernard K. K. Leung; Charles Martin; Cliff May; John Moyer; D. K. Oster; John Outcault; William Frazier Overpeck; Ross Patton; Powell, Morgridge, Richards & Coghlan; William Pereira; Jim Ramsey; Bob Pitchford; Robert Ricciardi; Stanley Ring; Johnson & George Ritter; John C. Roberts; Laszlo E. Sander; Stan Sackley; Rudolph Schindler; R. P. Shea; Sproul Homes; Tommy Tomson; John Carl Warnecke; Don Wexler; Walter S. White; Albert Wild; Harry Williams; Stewart Williams; John Elgin Woolf.

Palm Desert originally was expected to extend all the way from Rio Del Sol (Bob Hope Drive) in the west to Washington Avenue in the east. Palm Desert however, did not successfully incorporate until 1973. By that time some of that area had already incorporated into either Rancho Mirage or Indian Wells. Even so, many architectural records today will still include those ‘lost’ areas as being in Palm Desert.

An early street map of Palm Desert.